Friday, March 6, 2015

Blue Rhinestone Jewelry with Glass Leaf

Komplekt, mis koosneb kahest kaelakeest ja mida annab kombineerida vastavalt tujule. Pikk kaelakee annab juba iseenesest mitu varianti - kannad ühe või kahekordselt, mässid hoopis käevõruks? Keed täiendavad üksteist, kui kanda neid koos nagu eelviimasel pildil. Komplekt on müügil DaWandas.

mdmButiik Eesti disain käsitöö
Set of two necklaces in same colors: 
modest pastel blue, white, grey and metallic dark bronze
vintage style jewelry
Long necklace with lobster clasp, measuring 126cm.

Rhinestone jewelry
Both necklaces together, long necklace is set as double.

rhinestone jewelry
Pendant is relatively small and has lovely vintage glass leaf with
 sparkly Swarovski rhinestones. In the middle of the pendant
 I used Swarovski discontinued color "Blue Opal"

Set of necklaces that can be combine as one ever desires. Long necklace gives many options regarding how to wear it - once or twice around the neck, or perhaps wrapped around the wrist as a bracelet? And these necklaces create a perfect ensemble when worn together. Set is on DaWanda.

Thursday, March 5, 2015

Discovering Glass - Sizing Beads With Kernel Number and French Line

Kui veab, saan helmeid nende originaal pakendites ja seetõttu puutun kokku mulle veidi imelikena tunduvate numbritega. Et mis mõttes on suurus 3 1/2? Helmes ise oli umbes 7mm? Nii et see ei saa olla ei meetrisüsteemis ja tollidega ei suutnud ma seda samuti siduda. Või suurus nagu 00?

Appi tuli üks tark raamat. Pealkirjaks "Beads from Gablonz", autor Waltraud Neuwirth.

French line (Parisian line) on mõõtühik, mis oli seotud tolliga nii, et 1 toll =12 lines. Erinevates riikides oli selle vastavus millimeetritega erinev (ma ei hakka ingliskeelest tõlkima): 1 Parisian line = 2,2558mm, 1 Rhine line = 2,179mm, 1 Viennese line = 2,195, 1 English või Russian line = 2,116mm (Neuwirth 2011:24). Enamus minu Prosser helmeste karpidel on suurus 00, ühel helmeste puntral oli silt 000 ja ühel pakil 3 (mis paistab nagu 8). Tuleb välja, et need nullid, mida just Prosser helmeste juures näha, on osa nn Kernel'i numbrite süsteemist, mis on omakorda  seotud ülaltoodud line suurustega. Raamatus on ära toodud tabel, kus Kernel'i number on viidud vastavusse Parisian line ja millimeetritega (Neuwirth 2011:28). 

Näiteks alltoodud näidiskaaartidel ongi suurusteks Parisian lines ja kui võrrelda tabeli järgi suurust millimeetrites, siis oli vastavus täpne. Või nii täpne, kui minu silm seletas 1mm täpsusega joonlaua järgi.

Nii lihtne pole aga Prosser helmestega. Osad nr 00 suuruses Prosser helmed olid natuke suuremad, osad rohkem. Tabeli järgi peaks nr 00 olema 3,94mm, mul olid 4-5mm. Suurus 000 peaks olema 3,34mm, aga mul on 3-3,8mm. Suurus 8 vastavalt 9mm, aga minul on 7,5-8,1mm. Prosser helmed on enamjaolt suuruse koha pealt ebaregulaarsed, et ühe suuruse all on nii väiksemaid kui ka suuremaid. Üldiselt tundub, et Prosser helmed on reeglina suuremad, kui tabelis ja Tšehhoslovakkia helmed omakorda Prantsuse helmestest suuremad.

Klaashelmeste ajalugu
 Antique sample card with glass sew-on stones, all with foiling and frosted surface.
On the left there are size in Parisian line and right are color numbers.

klaashelmeste ajalugu
 French sample card with jet nailhead beads, article number on top sizing on left. 
These actually look like they have been faceted by hand not molded, because
 the corners of facets don't always align and the surface of the facet 
has slight lines from grinding.

klaashelmeste ajalugu
 Sample card with no-hole molded glass buttons in light and dark amber color. 
Same logo at top left corner suggests the same distributor like the first card components.
Glass seems to be molded with different top and bottom part molds 
and has wire attached. Sample card has long wood pieces behind and 
wire of each button goes through the card into the wood.

klaashelmeste ajalugu
 Antique faceted glass beads from Czechoslovakia. Didn't received the package full
so I don't know what numbers mean the amount. But 3 1/2 means the size
 for 7,8mm as according Parisian lines. 

klaashelmeste ajalugu
 Selection of French (Briare) Prosser beads with no sizing. I have them 
loose in boxes or cloth bags and some strung into long strings or interesting hanks.

klaashelmeste ajalugu
 French Briare Prosser beads in cardboard box: color 950, size nr 00 and amount 5000 pcs

klaashelmeste ajalugu
 Remnants of a big bundle of French Prosser beads. Beads are strung into long strings.
According to the tag color is 3774, size 000 and original amount 25 000 pcs.

Redlhammer Brothers klaashelmeste ajalugu
Original packages of Prosser beads from Redlhammer Brothers, Czechoslovakia. Both are with round beads article 3362 and in color 891. Box has size 00 and amount of 5000 ("5 Mille") loose beads. Wrapped package has size 8 (looks a bit like 3?) and amount 1000 pcs on string (10 strings, each with 100 beads, "1 Mille").

klaashelmeste ajalugu
Comparison of black French and milky Czechoslovakian Prosser beads. Both beads came from original boxes labeled with size 00. But as you can see, the milky ones are bit bigger.


When I'm lucky I get beads in their original packages and then I might see sizing that just doesn't make sense. I mean, how can size be 3 1/2? When it measures about 8mm? So I realized it's not in the metric system and I couldn't imagine how inches can be used here either. Or how about size 00?

Answers came from one great book. It's called "Beads from Gablonz", author Waltraud Neuwirth.

In the old times French line (Parisian line) was used when measuring beads and small glass components, and 1 inch=12lines. In different countries it was calculated into millimeters differently: 1 Parisian line = 2,2558mm, 1 Rhine line = 2,179mm, 1 Viennese line = 2,195, 1 English or Russian line = 2,116mm (Neuwirth 2011:24). Most of my Prosser bead boxes have 00, one bundle has 000 and one package 8 (that looks bit like 3, I'm not sure). So it turns out that those nulls on my Prosser bead labels are actually Kernel numbers that are connected to the so-called line measurements mentioned by Neuwirth. In the book there is a table with Kernel numbers, lines and corresponding millimeters when calculated Parisian lines (Neuwirth 2011:28). So I took it as reference and checked my beads.

The sample cards above have measurements in Parisian lines and if I compare with the correspondent millimeters from the table, the results are exact. Or as exact I can see with my ruler that has1mm accuracy.

Not so easy with Prosser beads though. Some of my nr 00 sized Prosser beads are measuring a bit more, others a lot more. Table says that size 00 should be 3,94mm, my beads are more like 4-5mm. Sized 000 should be 3,34mm, but are 3-3,8mm. Sized 8 should be 9mm, but are 7,5-8,1mm. But Prosser beads are not uniform in size, some are bigger, other smaller. Comparing same size (00) beads it seems that Czechoslovakian beads are bit bigger than French Prosser beads.


Monday, March 2, 2015

Swarovski Oval Crystals in Rhinestone Brooches

Esimesel pildil on näha hiljuti ostetud Swarovski ovaalse kujuga kristallid. Siin on värvid: Tanzanite, Burgundy, Crysolite, Light Topaz ja Rose.

Swarovskitele lisaks panin prossi käsitsi tehtud riisikujulised klaaspärlid Jaapanist ja ümmargused vintage või antiiksed helmed (Prosser, pressitud ümarad, English cut või nailhead-helmed). Ja tillukesed uued pärlid, mis ühel juhul on koos värvitud jadeiidist helmestega.

Hetkel on siin viis erinevat värvikombinatsiooni ja nende suurus on veel väiksem kui eelmistel prossidel - need on 25mm diameetriga! Kõikidel prossidel on signatuuriga plaadike, mis on tavalisest väiksem, kuna tavalise suurusega plaat lihtsalt poleks sobinud.

Beading supplies Jewelry
Swarovski oval rhinestones article 4120

crystal rhinestone jewelry by mdmButiik Estonia
Rhinestone brooches with Swarovski crystals

Estonia designer Jewelry
Pink handmade rhinestone brooch with vintage Czechoslovakia glass beads

designer jewelry signed Estonia
Back of the brooch featuring secure pin clasp and signature plate

handmade designer jewelry by mdmButiik
These brooches are small only 25mm in diameter!

On the first photo there are my recently bought Swarovski oval shaped crystals. The colors here are: Tanzanite, Burgundy, Crysolite, Light Topaz and Rose.

In addition to Swarovskis I added vintage handmade rise-shaped glass pearls from Japan and round vintage or antique beads (Prosser, pressed round, English cut or nailhead beads). And tiny little new pearls that in one case are with dyed jade beads.

There are five different color combinations at the time and the size of these brooches are smaller than previous brooches - these are 25mm in diameter! All brooches have signature plate that is smaller than I usually use, for the usual sized cartouche would've been too big.

Saturday, February 28, 2015

Saphiret Rhinestone Brooch

Väikesed prossid, mõõtudelt ainult pisut üle 3cm. Disain on sama, värvilahendused erinevad.

Kui sain need Saphiret klaasist tilgad, siis, noh... märkida, et olin rõõmus, on kolossaalselt pehmelt öeldud. Ma olin ikka päris arust ära, rõõmust. Plaane hakkasin mõne aja pärast tegema, sest emotsioonid lihtsalt ei lasknud.
Nii et, need prossid ise on suht väikesed, neid saaks kanda koos teiste prossidega. Olen aru saanud, et mitu prossi korraga kanda on mujal maailmas populaarne. Iseenesest saaks neid prosse kanda kaelas kui ripatseid, sest lisasin neile rõnga, millega saab neid lindi või keti otsa riputada.


handmade vintage style rhinestone jewelry from Estonia mdmButiik
Materials: Saphiret teardrop cabochons; Swarovski rhinestones in different colors 
(Light Smoked Topaz, Ceilon Topaz, Pacific Opal, Blue Opal), Czech glass pearls

handmade jewelry rhinestone jewellery homemade designer bridal jewelry
Lot of three brooches in colors of Saphiret, Turmaline Green and Sapphire-Ruby
Turmaline Green brooch is on Etsy shop

Lot of small brooches, measuring a bit over 3cm. Design is same but colors differ.

When I received these Saphiret glass drops then, well... to say I was happy is understatement no doubt. I was quite out of my mind, actually. Planning these into jewelry needed to wait a bit because emotions didn't let me.

So these brooches are quite small and could be worn together with other brooches. As I understand that wearing many brooches together at the same time is quite popular. You could use these as pendants also, because I added a ring that allows these brooches be hang on a ribbon or chain.



Friday, February 27, 2015

Work in Progress

Nii, et need Saphiret klaasist tilgad on plaanis kasutada ühes ehtes. Hoolimata sellest, et mulle tundub see klaas sobivat rohkem hõbeda või kuldse metalliga, plaanin kasutada neid oma traditsiooniliste vasksete metall-komponentidega. Kuna ma just hiljuti "segasin värve" kasutades kristallklaasist ehtekivisid, siis proovin seda teha ka siin.

Käisin läbi oma ehtekivide varud nii ja naapidi ning tegin valiku. Kõik on Swarovski ehtekivid, kuid vanus on neil väga erinev, jäädes aastate 1950-2000 vahele. Nagu näha, siis on ka kivide pakendid väga erinevad. Värvidest valisin välja: Smoked Topaz Light, Ceylon Topaz, Pacific Opal ja haruldane Blue Opal.
vintage jewelry jewellery supplies
Saphiret tear drop cabochons, glass pearls and Swarovski rhinestones

So I'm planning to use these Saphiret glass tear drops in a piece of jewellery. Although I think this glass goes better with golden or silvery metal I am planning to use these drops with my traditional coppery components. Since I recently "mixed colors" with crystal glass rhinestones I'll decided to do the same here.

I went through my rhinestone stash and made my choice. All rhinestones are made by Swarovski in different times, somewhere between the 1950-2000 year. As you can see the packages are also different since the company changes these in every once in a while. Colors are: Smoked Topaz Light, Ceylon Topaz, Pacific Opal and rare Blue Opal.

Thursday, February 26, 2015

Mixing Colors with Rhinestones

Praktika on näidanud, et kõige rohkem kasutan ma oma ehetes kristallivärvi ehk siis ilma värvita ehtekive. Ainuüksi neid 3mm kive on juba läinud kolm pakki (igas pakis on umbes 1440 tükki).

Õnneks oli mul hiljuti isu kasutada ka teisi värve ning värve lausa "segada". Siin on kolm prossi, millest üks on küll nii musta värvi kui võimalik, aga teised... Hallis prossis segasin kokku: Siam, Morion, Light Sapphire Satin, (Preciosa) Crystal Sahara ja Violet.
Pärlitega prossis segasin kokku: Topaz, Light Peach, Violet, Light Rose ja Light Amethyst AB.

Peab mainima, et "värvide segamine" nõudis suuremat planeerimist kuid oli päris vahva :)

Art Nouveau Art Deco Mad Men Downton Abbey Vintage Antique rhinestone jewellery jewelry
Three brooches in similar Art Deco design

wedding bridal jewelry sash brooch Art Deco mdmButiik
Pearl and pink brooch

Art Deco Brooch Vintage style jewelry baguette crystals Swarovski Preciosa rhinestones
Grey colored brooch

As it can be seen in time that the most used color in my jewellery is crystal clear or the colorless rhinestones. I've used 3 packages of the 3mm ones alone (every packages have about 1440 pieces).

Fortunately I was in mood to use other colors lately and even more to "mix" them. Here are three brooches, one brooch is as black as it can be, but others... In grey brooch I mixed: Siam, Morion, Light Sapphire Satin, (Preciosa) Crystal Sahara and Violet.
And in pearl brooch I mixed: Topaz, Light Peach, Violet, Light Rose and Light Amethyst AB.

I must say "mixing colors" needed bigger planning than usual but was loads of fun :)

Tuesday, February 24, 2015

Saphiret Drops

Saphiret klaasist tilgad. Need peaks olema uuemat sorti, nn Saphirine klaas. Neil on kuldne fooliumkiht. Kas pole nummid?!

saphirette saphirin


Drops of Saphiret glass. These are probably the newer version, Saphirine. They have gold foiling. Aren't they pretty?!

Monday, February 23, 2015

Ambrotype Photograph Case

Üks huvitav leid fotograafia ajaloost. Sain karbi koos klaasi ja raamiga, kuid pilt oli juba klaasilt "eemaldatud". Natuke kahju, et fotost endast pole jälgegi järele jäänud, kuid karp on ilusti säilinud. Tegu on nahkse kattega (puu)karbiga, millel kuldsed joonistatud kaunistused. Karbil on haak-kinnis ning ühel pool on mustriga sametist padjake, teisel pool foto koht.
Ma arvan, et tegu oli nn ambrotüüpi fotoga (enne 1860), sest tundub, et klaasi on "puhastatud" ja ühes nurgas näha midagi tumehalli. Kui tegu oleks daguerreotüübiga, siis oli klaasi ja hõbetatud vaskplaadi (millele kanti foto) vahel selline paspartuu-moodi asi, ambrotüüp-foto oli aga klaasile kantud ja paspartuu oli klaasi peal. Ja kui tegu oleks uuema fototüübiga, siis poleks tal sellist karpi. Selline karp oli mõeldud kaasaskantava foto kaitsmiseks, et klaas ei saaks kahjustatud. Spetsialist ma ei ole. Paistab, et selle karbi puhul saan vaid oletada...
Aga põnev igal juhul. Ma panin klaasi alla ühe mustrilise lehe, sest tühi klaas oli kuidagi kõle.

History of Photograpy


An interesting find from history of photography. I got this box with glass and frame (preserver), but photo itself was already "removed". It's a bit sad that there's no photo but the box looks really nice. It is a (wooden)box covered with leather and beautifully painted with gold. Box has a hook closure and one side has velvet pad with pattern, other for the photo.
I guess it might have been an ambrotype photo (before 1860s), for it seems the glass has been "cleaned" and there is still a bit of dark gray in the corner of the glass. If it was a daguerreotype then there would have been a mat between the glass and silver-coated copper plate. Ambrotype would have photo transferred on the back side of the glass and the mat placed over the glass. And if it were a newer photo type it wouldn't have this kind of case. These cases were meant to protect the photo for glass that was used is fragile. But I'm no expert. I suppose I can keep on guessing...
But it's still quite interesting. I put a patterned paper under the glass for it was a bit sad looking when empty.

Sunday, February 22, 2015

Jewelry with a Message

Need käevõrud on inspireeritud ehetest, mis olid eriti populaarsed viktooria ajastul. Nimelt olid ehted tollal väga tähenduslikud. Vähe sellest, et iga lill ja sümbol oli seotud mingi mõttega, peideti sõnumeid ka kalliskividesse. Iga kalliskivi nimetuse esimene täht andis kokku sõna.
Mina mängisin muidugi klaaskividega. Neid on mul kogunenud paras hulk ning kasutanud olen siin Lääne Saksamaa, Austria ja Tšehhoslovakkia klaaskive. Iga värv esindab vastavalt kalliskivi, mille ingliskeelne nimetus annab kokku sõna. Eelpainutatud traadile lükkisin veel läikega valged vanad Prosser helmed Prantsusmaalt. Käevõrud lähevad nii Etsy kui ka DaWanda poodi.

stacking jewelry vintage acrostic amethyst aquamarine opal ruby emerald diamond crystal
Käevõrusid saab edukalt kuhjata
These bracelets are perfect for layering and stacking

rhinestone jewelry beaded pearls
REGARD - ruby, emerald, garnet, aquamarine, ruby, diamond

rhinestone jewellery vintage style acrostic
ADORE - amethyst, diamond, opal, ruby, emerald

acrostic vintage style rhinestone crystal
DEAREST - diamond, emerald, amethyst, ruby, emerald, sapphire, topaz

These bracelets are inspired by the acrostic jewellery that was most popular in the Victorian times. Jewelry overall was very symbolic that time. Every flower and symbol was linked with some meaning but they also had hidden messages in precious stones. First letter of every stone spelled a word.
I played with glass rhinestones. I have quite a lot of them by now and here I've used Western Germany, Austria and Czechoslovakian glass rhinestones. Every color represents a stone, and first letter of every stone spells the word. Rhinestones and French antique white Prosser beads are on memory wire. These bangle bracelets will go both my Etsy and Dawanda shops.