Discovering Glass: Louis Rousselet

Louis Rousselet (1892-1980) - French beadmaker and jewelry designer. Famous of his art glass beads, imitation pearls and Galalith beads that were worn by the famous women of that time. In 1920, he founded his own workshop, specializing on imitation pearls and glass beads. He founded his business in 1926 at 18 rue des Pavillons in Paris. Chanel became one of the first clients followed by Dior, Lanvin, Schiaparelli, Jacques Fath, Balenciaga, Balmain... 

Every glass bead was formed by hand, wrapping hot glass around metal mandrel. Often these beads were given baroque shape to resemble natural stones (imitation turquoise, marble, quartz etc) with each bead different than other. Glass pearls were coated with a fish scale compound - essence d'Orient - less coatings giving a semi-transparent look and many coatings creating a thick pearlescent surface.

Selection of Rousselet pearls - smooth or baroque, strings of
same sized pearls or graduated, in various colors.

"...it took six or seven years to train workers, an expensive procedure which came to an end when the last trained worker retired in 1975..." quote from illusionjewels.com. The workshops employed up to 800 people. 

Louis Rousselet factory.
Photo via beadcollector.net

Galalith beads were made from casein (milk protein) that was dipped into formaldehyde. It was produced in sheets or tubes and dyed. Since this early plastic couldn't be molded, it was carved the way more expensive materials like wood, tortoise shell, jadeite, horn and ivory. Louis Rousselet also experimented with interlocking beads created from different colored beads that fit together. He also used Nacrolaque beads from Paisseau's stock (Beads: journal of the society of Bead Research vol 8-9).

Signed clasp with "Made in France" and initials "LR"
This is a box clasp, but I've seen Louis Rousselet jewelry
with barrel/sphere claps (with screw) and different hooks.

After the purchasing Persan-Beaumont company, Rousselet started to produce metal work in variety of colours and forms including pin packs, stamped filigrees, different clasps, bead caps etc. Combining these with glass beads and wire work techniques defines Rousselet style. Louis Rousselet jewelry had paper tags, but sometimes a phrase "Made in France" stamped on metal findings. There are also some box clasps that had additional initials "LR".

Paper tag of Louis Rousselet jewelry.

Photo from jeannedanjou-jewelry-paris.com

Daughter of Louis Rousselet - Denise - also designed some of her fathers collection and in 1960 opened a shop Jeanne Danjou after her mother. The very same shop is still in business and run by Denise son Jean. See more jeannedanjou.com

"In the 1930s, Mistinguett – the great acting and singing star of the time – was the muse of Rousselet and his company. Many starlets such as Joséphine Baker often appeared in public wearing Rousselet beads in venues such as the Moulin Rouge and the Casino de Paris." quote from jeannedanjou-jewelry-paris.com

Mistinguett in Rousselet factory trying beadmaking.
Photo via beadcollector.net.

Louis Rousselet (1892-1980) - Prantsuse helmetegija ja disainer. Kuulus efektsest klaasist helmeste, imitatsioon pärlite ja Galalith helmeste poolest, mida kandsid tolleaegsed kuulsad naisterahvad. Aastal 1920 asutas enda töökoja ja spetsialiseerus imitatsioon-pärlite ja klaashelmeste valmistamisele. Esimesi kliente oli Chanel, kellele järgnesid Dior, Lanvin, Schiaparelli, Jacques Fath, Balenciaga, Balmain... 

These wireworked components came with the pearls and clasps.
I haven't seen any jewelry with these but pearls on wire
with loops both ends are very common in Rousselet jewelry.

Iga klaashelmes valmistati käsitsi, mässides kuuma klaasi ümber metallist varda. Tihti anti helmestele barokne pind, et imiteerida looduslikke kive (türkiis, marmor, kvarts jne) valmistades iga helmes pisut omamoodi. Klaaspärlid kaeti kalasoomustest valmistatud kihiga - essence d'Orient - õhem kiht andis klaasi läbi kumama, paksem kiht meenutas kauneimaid looduslikke pärleid.

"...võttis kuus või seitse aastat, et õpetada välja töölisi, kulukas protseduur, mis lõppes aastal 1975, kui viimane helmeste valmistaja pensionile siirdus..." tsitaat illusionjewels.com. Töökodades valmistas helmeid kuni 800 töölist.

Pair of Louis Rousselet clasps. One with round
baroque glass pearl and antique silver filigree,
other with imitation turquoise bead nested in
tiny glass pearls. Both clasps are signed.

Galalith helmed valmistati kaseiinist, mis pisteti formaldehüüdi. Seda valmistati lehtede või torudena ning siis värviti. Kuna seda varajast plastmassi  ei saanud vormida, siis seda lõigati ja kaunistati nikerdustega nagu kallemaid materjale, nt puu, kilpkonnaluu, jadeiit, luu ja elevandiluu. Louis Rousselet eksperimenteeris varajase plastikuga, valmistades helmeid kahest erivärvi osast ning pannes need kokku nagu mosaiigi. Ta kasutas veel Nacrolaque helmeid Paisseau valikust (Beads: journal of the society of Bead Research vol 8-9).

Kui Rousselet ostis ära firma Persan-Beaumont, lisandusid erinevatele helmestele ka suures valikus metallist ehete komponendid nagu prossinõelad, filigraan-plaadid, erinevad kinnised, helmekübarad jne. Kombineerides neid kvaliteetsete klaashelmeste ja traadi kasutamise tehnikaga, on näha Rousselet ehete iseloomulik stiil. Louis Rousselet ehetel olid pabersildid, mõnikord oli metallist ehetekomponentidele peale löödud "Made in France" ja mõnedel karpkinnistel oli lisaks sellele veel initsiaalid "LR".

Louis Rousselet tütar - Denise - disainis samuti mõnikord oma isale kollektsioone ja avas 1960 poe, millele andis oma ema järgi nime Jeanne Danjou. See sama pood tegutseb tänapäevalgi ja seda peab Denise' poeg Jean. Poe koduleht on jeannedanjou.com

Misstinguett was the muse of Rousselet and his company.
Photo from jeannedanjou-jewelry-paris.com

"1930ndatel aastatel, Mistinguett – tolleaegne suur filmi ja muusika kuulsus– oli Rousselet ja ta firma muusaks. Mitmed tähed nagu Joséphine Baker kandsid Rousselet helmeid kohtades nagu Moulin Rouge ja Casino de Paris." tsitaat jeannedanjou-jewelry-paris.com 

***
INFO FROM:

The shop of Louis Rousselet grandson Jean:
jeannedanjou.com

Maison Rousselet, by Rousselet grandsons daughter Caroline:
maisonrousselet.com/

www.illusionjewels.com/LouisRousseletjewelry.html

www.simplydecorous.com/artist-designers/louis-rousselet

www.wikipedia.org

Gorgeous French Pearls

When I looked closely, these pearls resembled Japanese handmade pearls Miriam Haskell used. Handmade with baroque surface and heavy pearl coating - called Niki pearls. But these came from France, a country with long history of beadmakers.

Pearls on these photos are also handmade with each one a bit different, baroque surface and heavy pearl coating. These came from a reseller from France with some half-finished components and clasps. These are Louis Rousselet.

Kui neid pärleid lähemalt vaadata, siis meenutavad need Jaapani pärleid, mida Miriam Haskell kasutas. Käsitsi valmistatud, barokse pinna ja paksu pärlikihiga - nn Niki pärlid. Kuid pildil olevad pärlid on pärit Prantsusmaalt, kohast, kus on pikk helmeste valmistamise ajalugu.

Need pärlid on valmistatud käsitsi, igaüks pisut omamoodi, barokse pinna ja paksu pärlikihiga. Need tulid edasimüüjalt Prantsusmaalt koos mõne pooliku komponendi ja kinnistega. Need on Louis Rousselet pärlid.

Vintage Style Black Brooch

New Years Eve is not far now. I don't know why, but when thinking of jewelry for that occasion, I tend to imagine black, golden or silver jewelry. All the bright colors are before or after. Funny right? Maybe it's  something to contemplate about...

I made this black brooch for the black collection I created some time ago. It has vintage round glass cabochon in the center, handmade in Japan. With small Prosser beads and seedbeads covering filigrees on both sides. Crystal glass rhinestones, and a big Czech faceted bead drop.

Uusaasta pole enam kaugel. Ma ei tea miks, aga mõeldes selle sündmusele sobivatele ehetele, kujutlen alati midagi musta, kuldset või hõbedast. Kõik erksavärvilised on kas enne või pärast. Naljakas, kas pole? Võibolla peaks selle üle mõtistklema...

Tegin selle prossi musta kollektsiooni juurde, mille valmistasin mingi aeg tagasi. Sellel on vintage must klaaskivi, mis on käsitsi valmistatud Jaapanis. Väiksed Prosser helmed ja seemnehelmed katavad filigraanplaate mõlemal pool. Kristallklaasist ehtekivid ja suur Tšehhi lihvitud klaasist helmes.

Treasure Hunt: Vintage Glass Pearls from France

When I first saw these pearls I knew I had to have them. It was an intuition, knowing that these were more than just jewelry supplies. Just look at these! Gorgeous pearlescent coating and baroque shape, with each looking a bit different. Yep, these must be handmade.

Temporarily strung glass pearls in different shades and shapes.
I got some other jewelry components as well that will
help me to identify the origin of these pearls.

Kui neid klaaspärleid esimene kord nägin, siis teadsin, et pean need saama. See oli intuitsioon, teadmine, et need on rohkem kui lihtsalt ehtevalmistamise materjal. Lihtsalt vaata! Imekaunis pärlikiht ja barokne pind, iga helmes pisut erineva kujuga. Jep, need on käsitsi tehtud.

Black Necklace with Vintage Jet Nailhead Beads

Long necklace with black nailhead beads in the centerpiece. I imagine wearing it with sheer black blouse. Would look great going to a party with it but it's easy to celebrate every day with a necklace like this :)

The necklace measures 74cm long with centerpiece 8cm.
Here it is next to antique sample card with nailhead beads
and a bowl of black French Prosser beads also
used in this necklace.

Small plate with tiny nailhead beads shown in previous
blog post creating a contrast with a big round nailhead bead
measuring 26mm!

Different size and shapes of nailhead beads used in the necklace.

Pikemat sorti kaelakee musta värvi nailhead helmestest. Kujutan ette, kuidas seda kanda musta värvi šifoon pluusiga. Hea panna peo jaoks kaela, kuid sellise kaelakeega saab vabalt argipäeva pidupäevaks muuta :)

Vintage Black Beads

Here are some of my vintage beads in black color. It's amazing how many different sizes does the nailhead beads come! Take a look:

These tiny nailhead beads was a true find! I got these from
Germany. Really tiny measuring appr. 3mm these beads are flat,
have three tips and facets that reflect the light!

This photo gives is a great way to compare
the different size of nailhead beads.

Navette shaped nailhead beads have parallel holes and
are strung on bright red thread. Some bead distributors say
that black Czechoslovakia beads that were strung on dyed
thread were produced in the turn of the 19th and 20th century.

And these beads are Prosser beads! The small faceted ones in front
are actually pressed from paste and fired! The mold already
had the facets.
Black Prosser beads in white bowl are classic rounds and came
from the exact box that is pictured here.

Siin on mõned musta värvi vintage helmed. Uskumatu, kui erinevates suurustes nailhead helmeid on tehtud!

Satin Look

Both of the lining of this antique box and the vintage pink bead in the center of the earrings have luxurious satin look.

Nii antiikse karbikese vooder kui ka kõrvarõngaste keskel olev vintage helmes on mõlemad luksusliku läikega.