Discovering Glass: Louis Rousselet

Louis Rousselet (1892-1980) - French beadmaker and jewelry designer. Famous of his art glass beads, imitation pearls and Galalith beads that were worn by the famous women of that time. In 1920, he founded his own workshop, specializing on imitation pearls and glass beads. He founded his business in 1926 at 18 rue des Pavillons in Paris. Chanel became one of the first clients followed by Dior, Lanvin, Schiaparelli, Jacques Fath, Balenciaga, Balmain... 

Every glass bead was formed by hand, wrapping hot glass around metal mandrel. Often these beads were given baroque shape to resemble natural stones (imitation turquoise, marble, quartz etc) with each bead different than other. Glass pearls were coated with a fish scale compound - essence d'Orient - less coatings giving a semi-transparent look and many coatings creating a thick pearlescent surface.

Selection of Rousselet pearls - smooth or baroque, strings of
same sized pearls or graduated, in various colors.

"...it took six or seven years to train workers, an expensive procedure which came to an end when the last trained worker retired in 1975..." quote from illusionjewels.com. The workshops employed up to 800 people. 

Louis Rousselet factory.
Photo via beadcollector.net

Galalith beads were made from casein (milk protein) that was dipped into formaldehyde. It was produced in sheets or tubes and dyed. Since this early plastic couldn't be molded, it was carved the way more expensive materials like wood, tortoise shell, jadeite, horn and ivory. Louis Rousselet also experimented with interlocking beads created from different colored beads that fit together. He also used Nacrolaque beads from Paisseau's stock (Beads: journal of the society of Bead Research vol 8-9).

Signed clasp with "Made in France" and initials "LR"
This is a box clasp, but I've seen Louis Rousselet jewelry
with barrel/sphere claps (with screw) and different hooks.

After the purchasing Persan-Beaumont company, Rousselet started to produce metal work in variety of colours and forms including pin packs, stamped filigrees, different clasps, bead caps etc. Combining these with glass beads and wire work techniques defines Rousselet style. Louis Rousselet jewelry had paper tags, but sometimes a phrase "Made in France" stamped on metal findings. There are also some box clasps that had additional initials "LR".

Paper tag of Louis Rousselet jewelry.

Photo from jeannedanjou-jewelry-paris.com

Daughter of Louis Rousselet - Denise - also designed some of her fathers collection and in 1960 opened a shop Jeanne Danjou after her mother. The very same shop is still in business and run by Denise son Jean. See more jeannedanjou.com

"In the 1930s, Mistinguett – the great acting and singing star of the time – was the muse of Rousselet and his company. Many starlets such as Joséphine Baker often appeared in public wearing Rousselet beads in venues such as the Moulin Rouge and the Casino de Paris." quote from jeannedanjou-jewelry-paris.com

Mistinguett in Rousselet factory trying beadmaking.
Photo via beadcollector.net.

Louis Rousselet (1892-1980) - Prantsuse helmetegija ja disainer. Kuulus efektsest klaasist helmeste, imitatsioon pärlite ja Galalith helmeste poolest, mida kandsid tolleaegsed kuulsad naisterahvad. Aastal 1920 asutas enda töökoja ja spetsialiseerus imitatsioon-pärlite ja klaashelmeste valmistamisele. Esimesi kliente oli Chanel, kellele järgnesid Dior, Lanvin, Schiaparelli, Jacques Fath, Balenciaga, Balmain... 

These wireworked components came with the pearls and clasps.
I haven't seen any jewelry with these but pearls on wire
with loops both ends are very common in Rousselet jewelry.

Iga klaashelmes valmistati käsitsi, mässides kuuma klaasi ümber metallist varda. Tihti anti helmestele barokne pind, et imiteerida looduslikke kive (türkiis, marmor, kvarts jne) valmistades iga helmes pisut omamoodi. Klaaspärlid kaeti kalasoomustest valmistatud kihiga - essence d'Orient - õhem kiht andis klaasi läbi kumama, paksem kiht meenutas kauneimaid looduslikke pärleid.

"...võttis kuus või seitse aastat, et õpetada välja töölisi, kulukas protseduur, mis lõppes aastal 1975, kui viimane helmeste valmistaja pensionile siirdus..." tsitaat illusionjewels.com. Töökodades valmistas helmeid kuni 800 töölist.

Pair of Louis Rousselet clasps. One with round
baroque glass pearl and antique silver filigree,
other with imitation turquoise bead nested in
tiny glass pearls. Both clasps are signed.

Galalith helmed valmistati kaseiinist, mis pisteti formaldehüüdi. Seda valmistati lehtede või torudena ning siis värviti. Kuna seda varajast plastmassi  ei saanud vormida, siis seda lõigati ja kaunistati nikerdustega nagu kallemaid materjale, nt puu, kilpkonnaluu, jadeiit, luu ja elevandiluu. Louis Rousselet eksperimenteeris varajase plastikuga, valmistades helmeid kahest erivärvi osast ning pannes need kokku nagu mosaiigi. Ta kasutas veel Nacrolaque helmeid Paisseau valikust (Beads: journal of the society of Bead Research vol 8-9).

Kui Rousselet ostis ära firma Persan-Beaumont, lisandusid erinevatele helmestele ka suures valikus metallist ehete komponendid nagu prossinõelad, filigraan-plaadid, erinevad kinnised, helmekübarad jne. Kombineerides neid kvaliteetsete klaashelmeste ja traadi kasutamise tehnikaga, on näha Rousselet ehete iseloomulik stiil. Louis Rousselet ehetel olid pabersildid, mõnikord oli metallist ehetekomponentidele peale löödud "Made in France" ja mõnedel karpkinnistel oli lisaks sellele veel initsiaalid "LR".

Louis Rousselet tütar - Denise - disainis samuti mõnikord oma isale kollektsioone ja avas 1960 poe, millele andis oma ema järgi nime Jeanne Danjou. See sama pood tegutseb tänapäevalgi ja seda peab Denise' poeg Jean. Poe koduleht on jeannedanjou.com

Misstinguett was the muse of Rousselet and his company.
Photo from jeannedanjou-jewelry-paris.com

"1930ndatel aastatel, Mistinguett – tolleaegne suur filmi ja muusika kuulsus– oli Rousselet ja ta firma muusaks. Mitmed tähed nagu Joséphine Baker kandsid Rousselet helmeid kohtades nagu Moulin Rouge ja Casino de Paris." tsitaat jeannedanjou-jewelry-paris.com 

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INFO FROM:

The shop of Louis Rousselet grandson Jean:
jeannedanjou.com

Maison Rousselet, by Rousselet grandsons daughter Caroline:
maisonrousselet.com/

www.illusionjewels.com/LouisRousseletjewelry.html

www.simplydecorous.com/artist-designers/louis-rousselet

www.wikipedia.org

Gorgeous French Pearls

When I looked closely, these pearls resembled Japanese handmade pearls Miriam Haskell used. Handmade with baroque surface and heavy pearl coating - called Niki pearls. But these came from France, a country with long history of beadmakers.

Pearls on these photos are also handmade with each one a bit different, baroque surface and heavy pearl coating. These came from a reseller from France with some half-finished components and clasps. These are Louis Rousselet.

Kui neid pärleid lähemalt vaadata, siis meenutavad need Jaapani pärleid, mida Miriam Haskell kasutas. Käsitsi valmistatud, barokse pinna ja paksu pärlikihiga - nn Niki pärlid. Kuid pildil olevad pärlid on pärit Prantsusmaalt, kohast, kus on pikk helmeste valmistamise ajalugu.

Need pärlid on valmistatud käsitsi, igaüks pisut omamoodi, barokse pinna ja paksu pärlikihiga. Need tulid edasimüüjalt Prantsusmaalt koos mõne pooliku komponendi ja kinnistega. Need on Louis Rousselet pärlid.

Vintage Style Black Brooch

New Years Eve is not far now. I don't know why, but when thinking of jewelry for that occasion, I tend to imagine black, golden or silver jewelry. All the bright colors are before or after. Funny right? Maybe it's  something to contemplate about...

I made this black brooch for the black collection I created some time ago. It has vintage round glass cabochon in the center, handmade in Japan. With small Prosser beads and seedbeads covering filigrees on both sides. Crystal glass rhinestones, and a big Czech faceted bead drop.

Uusaasta pole enam kaugel. Ma ei tea miks, aga mõeldes selle sündmusele sobivatele ehetele, kujutlen alati midagi musta, kuldset või hõbedast. Kõik erksavärvilised on kas enne või pärast. Naljakas, kas pole? Võibolla peaks selle üle mõtistklema...

Tegin selle prossi musta kollektsiooni juurde, mille valmistasin mingi aeg tagasi. Sellel on vintage must klaaskivi, mis on käsitsi valmistatud Jaapanis. Väiksed Prosser helmed ja seemnehelmed katavad filigraanplaate mõlemal pool. Kristallklaasist ehtekivid ja suur Tšehhi lihvitud klaasist helmes.

Treasure Hunt: Vintage Glass Pearls from France

When I first saw these pearls I knew I had to have them. It was an intuition, knowing that these were more than just jewelry supplies. Just look at these! Gorgeous pearlescent coating and baroque shape, with each looking a bit different. Yep, these must be handmade.

Temporarily strung glass pearls in different shades and shapes.
I got some other jewelry components as well that will
help me to identify the origin of these pearls.

Kui neid klaaspärleid esimene kord nägin, siis teadsin, et pean need saama. See oli intuitsioon, teadmine, et need on rohkem kui lihtsalt ehtevalmistamise materjal. Lihtsalt vaata! Imekaunis pärlikiht ja barokne pind, iga helmes pisut erineva kujuga. Jep, need on käsitsi tehtud.

Black Necklace with Vintage Jet Nailhead Beads

Long necklace with black nailhead beads in the centerpiece. I imagine wearing it with sheer black blouse. Would look great going to a party with it but it's easy to celebrate every day with a necklace like this :)

The necklace measures 74cm long with centerpiece 8cm.
Here it is next to antique sample card with nailhead beads
and a bowl of black French Prosser beads also
used in this necklace.

Small plate with tiny nailhead beads shown in previous
blog post creating a contrast with a big round nailhead bead
measuring 26mm!

Different size and shapes of nailhead beads used in the necklace.

Pikemat sorti kaelakee musta värvi nailhead helmestest. Kujutan ette, kuidas seda kanda musta värvi šifoon pluusiga. Hea panna peo jaoks kaela, kuid sellise kaelakeega saab vabalt argipäeva pidupäevaks muuta :)

Vintage Black Beads

Here are some of my vintage beads in black color. It's amazing how many different sizes does the nailhead beads come! Take a look:

These tiny nailhead beads was a true find! I got these from
Germany. Really tiny measuring appr. 3mm these beads are flat,
have three tips and facets that reflect the light!

This photo gives is a great way to compare
the different size of nailhead beads.

Navette shaped nailhead beads have parallel holes and
are strung on bright red thread. Some bead distributors say
that black Czechoslovakia beads that were strung on dyed
thread were produced in the turn of the 19th and 20th century.

And these beads are Prosser beads! The small faceted ones in front
are actually pressed from paste and fired! The mold already
had the facets.
Black Prosser beads in white bowl are classic rounds and came
from the exact box that is pictured here.

Siin on mõned musta värvi vintage helmed. Uskumatu, kui erinevates suurustes nailhead helmeid on tehtud!

Satin Look

Both of the lining of this antique box and the vintage pink bead in the center of the earrings have luxurious satin look.

Nii antiikse karbikese vooder kui ka kõrvarõngaste keskel olev vintage helmes on mõlemad luksusliku läikega.

Pink Crystal Stud Earrings

And here's one pair of earrings I made using the vintage beads I previously showed. These are cute and girly stud earrings, great to wear in scarf season. It's so cold and windy here in Estonia today...

You find these earrings at mdmButiik Etsy, if you'd like to see more photos!

These girly pink earrings look like little blossoms!

The glow of the bigger vintage beads comes from their frosted finish

These earrings are rather small, measuring 1,5cm in diameter

Ja siin on üks paar kõrvarõngaid, mille tegin varem näidatud vintage helmestest. Need on armsad ja plikalikud post tüüpi kõrvarõngad, mida hea kanda salli hooajal. Huh, milline külm tuul täna on...

Leiad need kõrvarõngad mdmButiik Etsy poest, kus on rohkem pilte!

Vintage Pink Glass Beads

Selection of vintage glass beads in color of precious pink. Looks yummi! I plan to make some earrings from these.

I picked out these gorgeous pink beads! Nailhead beads and drop
beads are in dishes, hollow glass beads and so called mercury beads
are temporarily strung on original hanks.

Vintage faceted crystal glass drops from Czechoslovakia.
Color is Rosalin. And look at these coin shaped hollow beads
showing off their frosted look! I've used these in long earrings.

Vintage and rare Czechoslovakian nailhead beads in leaf shape
and pink metallic color. I've used these once before in this brooch.

Valik vintage klaashelmeid kaunis roosas toonis. Isuäratav! Plaan on neid kasutada kõrvarõngaste tegemisel.

Woodland Inspired Wedding Accessories

As promised! Here is an option for wedding accessories with brown wax tape. It gives the items a kind of woodland feel, don't you think? With a bit vintage edge.

There are some color options available also. Most of the glass beads used here are cream-colored and white. Now the white can be replaced with pastel blue, pastel pink or pastel yellow. Imagine the cream pearls with some pastel color popping up between the branches. Oh so delicate! These are the colors I managed to hunt down when searching for those cute vintage glass leaves! As the vintage leaves are limited, so are the jewelry.

I've already started to list these wedding accessories on mdmButiik Etsy. Go and take a look because there you'll find more photos of the items!

Here is all the accessories laid out - it gives you the possibility
to mix and match according to your liking.

Wedding hair pins look good on bridesmaids but also on bride!

Boutonnieres for lapel come in two sizes. If the groom prefers the
smaller bouquet on the lapel then one of these will work perfectly!

Nagu lubatud, siin on pulmade ehetele valikuvõimalus pruuni vahateibiga. See annab sellised looduslähedase tunde, kas pole? Väikese vintage stiili varjundiga.

Ka mõned värvi valikud on võimalikud. Enamus klaashelmeid nendes ehetes on kas kreemikad pärlid või siis valged. Valged helmed ja komponendid on võimalik vahetada värviliste vastu: pastell sinine, pastell roosa ja pastell kollane. Kujuta ette, pärlitega oskakeste vahelt paistab siin-seal pisut pastelset värvi. Hästi õrnalt! Ülalmainitud värvid on valikus, sest sellised vintage lehekesed on mul õnnestunud "aardejahil" tabada! Vintage klaaslehekesed on limiteeritud ja samuti on ehted.

Ma olen juba alustanud nende ehete lisamist mdmButiik Etsy poodi. Mine kindlasti vaata, sest seal on aksessuaaridest rohkem pilte!

Vintage Style Wedding Accessories for the Bride & Groom, Bridesmaids & Groomsmen

Take a look what I've finished with green wax tape. Here's a selection of wedding accessories, starting from tiara for the bride. These are brand new and will be available in brown wax tape also. Brown wax tape gives warmer color to the branches.

I'll let you know when I start to list these to mdmButiik Etsy shop. These are quite time-consuming pieces so if you have any custom orders then let me know as soon as possible via Etsy or email. Just to make sure you'll receive them on time. But till then you find wedding jewelry and hair jewelry in corresponding shop sections.

Matching wedding accessories for
bride (tiara) and groom (boutonniere)

Here are three boutonnieres for groomsmen or
perhaps father of the groom or bride

Some feminine hair pins for bridesmaids or
mother of the bride/groom

Siin on näha, mis ma valmistasin rohelise vahatatud teibiga. Valik aksessuaare pulmadeks, alustades pruudi tiaaraga. Need on uhiuued ning valikuna tuleb veel pruuni vahateibiga aksessuaarid. Pruun vahateip annab ehetele soojema tooni.

Ma annan teada, kui alustan nende ehete mdmButiigi Etsy poodi üleslaadimisega. Need on päris aeganõudvad ja seetõttu, kui sul on mingid soovid või tellimused, siis palun anna võimalikult kiiresti teada kas Etsy kaudu või meili kaudu. Seda sellepärast, et vajalikud ehted õigel ajal kohale jõuaksid. Aga senimaani leiab pulmade ehted ja juukseehted vastavates mdmButiik Etsy poe alajaotustes.

Silver Lined Beads in Boutonniere for Groom

I've been busy with beading again and soon there will be photos to show. Meantime come visit mdmButiik FB page!

Grooms boutonniere on a dish full of silver lined seed beads

Viimasel ajal olen usinalt ehteid teinud, varsti saab näha ka pilte. Aga seniks tule külasta mdmButiik FB lehte!

How These Beaded Branches Turned Out

You've seen these sneak-peeks of work in progress using wax tape. How I realized that the warmth of my hands is melting the wax turning the tape softer and flexible. That I used tiny glass beads and vintage leaves from Czechoslovakia. It is very different than I've made so far. Now I can show you the result of this journey.

Small bouquet of glass-beaded branches and glass leaves...

The silver line seed-beads have
square shaped holes that reflect light!

Here you can see the vintage leaves from Czechoslovakia
and handmade rice-shaped glass pearls from Japan

This little bouquet can be used as wedding boutonniere
for groom or best man when attaching to lapel

Siiamaani olen näidanud uusi katsetusi vahatatud teibiga. Kuidas ma avastasin, et mu enda käte soojus muudab vaha, millega paberteip on töödeldud, pehmeks ja elastseks. Et ma kasutasin klaashelmeid ja vintage klaasist lehekesi Tšehhoslovakkiast. See on väga erinev sellest, mida siiamaani teinud. Ja nüüd saan näidata ühte tulemust sellel retkel.

Väike bukett klaashelmestest oskakeste ja klaas-lehekestega...

Treasure Hunt - Vintage Ink Well

Here's a selection of photos I made from the ink well. I love these kind of pretty little things!

I was searching for old brass items to use when photographing jewelry (isn't it a great excuse for buying pretty things?!) and was scrolling through vintage and antique picture frames. In some strange reason I saw a vintage brass ink well that was with absolutely over the top decorations and a jaw-dropping price. Since that ink well had this glorious embellishments that none of my jewelry could compete (and the price that was out of my world) I thought that it might be a great idea to search what kind of ink wells are out there. And found this!

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This vintage ink well has romantic decoration and is made of brass.

On the ink well sits a cute brass bird like on its nest!

See this? This porcelain insert is original and is meant to contain ink.

This photo shows what it looks from under.

Siin on valik fotosid tindipotist. Mulle täiega meeldivad sellised väiksed iluasjad!

Ma tegelikult otsisin vanu messingust esemeid, mida kasutada oma ehete pildistamisel (kas pole hea vabandus iluasjade ostmiseks?) ja vaatasin vintage pidliraamide oksjoneid. Mingil imelikul põhjusel oli seal hulgas üks vintage messing-kaunistustega tindipott millel absoluutselt üle võlli kaunistused ja üüratu hind. Et sellel tindipotil olid sellised kuninglikud kaunistused, millega ükski mu ehe võistelda ei suudaks (ja hind mu võimalustest valgusaastate kaugusel), siis mõtlesin, et äkki on hea idee otsida, milliseid tindipotte veel saadaval on. Ja leidsin selle siin!

Do You Speak Swarovski Language? Autumn Colored Crystal Rhinestone

I took this close up photo of the Swarovski crystal stone and it is really magnificent how many colors are there! When speaking in Swarovski language there are: Emerald, Hyacinth, Light Topaz, Olivine, Fern Green, Khaki, Tourmaline Green, Smoked Topaz, Smoky Quartz. Maybe even Indian Red? Anything  else you could point out? I'm pretty sure there are plenty more!

Sellest lähivõttest on näha suurelt Swarovski kristallklaasist kivi ja lihtsalt hämmastav, kui palju värve seal on! Kui rääkida Swarovski keeles, siis siin on: Emerald, Hyacinth, Light Topaz, Olivine, Fern Green, Khaki, Tourmaline Green, Smoked Topaz, Smoky Quartz. Võibolla isegi Indian Red? Keegi näeb siin veel midagi? Olen päris kindel, et siin on veel nimetamata värve!

Gothic Vibe - Black Crystal Earrings

Black is that special color that seems to emerge every now and then. But when you think of it, you'll realize that it never really left in the first place. Like, ever.

Black is always here. Here's a process of two pairs of black earrings - one pair of black beaded earrings and one pair of black crystal earrings.

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Work in progress. I use Swarovski Jet crystal rhinestones, pressed 

Czech round beads and seed beads.

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It takes four different size of black beads to make the black beaded earrings!

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Black crystal earrings with sparkly Swarovski rhinestones and glass beads.

Must on selline värv, mis ikka ja jälle kerkib esile. Aga kui nüüd järele mõelda, siis tuleb välja, et must polegi kuhugile lahkunud. Nagu mitte kordagi.

Must on alati siin. Ja siin on kahe paari kõrvarõngaste saamislugu - üks paar helmestest kõrvarõngad ja teine kristallidega kõrvarõngad.

Work in Progress and What I Learned in First Encounter with Wax Tape

Here's another look at what I'm working on. I'm working with wire, pearls and beads and then cover the stems with paper tape that is treated with wax. That wax tape was something new to me. Have you ever used it? Well, this was the first time I've been using it and it is strange! First I didn't even realize how something like that can be flexible enough to wrap around wire. It seemed so fragile!

I'm using dark brown and green wax tapes with my beaded branches. As it seems, the trick is in my own hands... The warmth of the hands will make the wax go soft and turn the whole tape into flexible medium that can be twisted, pulled and manipulated. It's awesome!!!

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 This crystal glass leaf has so many facets that makes it really sparkly. 

When looked at close under magnifying glass it has visible marks

 that suggest it was hand cut. How great is that!

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In this photo you can see the wires and tapes I'm using. I'm not using 

green and brown tape in one piece, I'm making two sets at the same time.

Siin on veel paar pilti käimasolevast tööst. Töötan pärlite, traadi ja helmestega. Vahaga töödeldud paberteip on minu jaoks aga midagi täiesti uut. On keegi lugejatest seda kasutanud? Igaljuhul, minu jaoks on see esmakordne ja ausalt öeldes on see niivõrd imelik! Alguses ma ei suutnud aru saada, miks selle nimi üldse teip on, vahaga kokku tehtud lihtne ja õhuke paber, mida ei julgegi traadi ümber mässida. See tundus nii õrn!

Ma kasutan nii tumepruuni kui ka rohelist teipi oma oksakestel. Nagu välja tuleb, siis kogu trikk on minu enda kätes... Ehk siis mu käte soojus pehmendab vaha, mis omakorda muudab kogu paberi pehmeks ja elastseks nii, et seda saab mässida, venitada ja voolida. Päris äge!

Happy Birthday!

Now it's time for celebrations! 6 years ago on this very day mdmButiik jewelry was created!

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Käes on aeg tähistamiseks! Kuus aastat tagasi, sellel samal päeval sündis mdmButiik!

Inspiration: The Colors of Fall

With all the routine in my life I cherish the inspiration I get. So, it's Fall, the most colorful season that shines along when the sun is shining. I'm really glad that we're having some of those sunny days here in Estonia. All the colorful leaves, sun that still can warm and that crispy cold air I breathe in to my lungs...

And POW! it's so magnificently inspiring! I instantly thought of my sparkly crystal rhinestones in all the Fall colors. My schedule is pretty tight and I might not be able to work longer with these glass jewels but playing around with them just to inspire is sometimes all it takes. Take a look and perhaps you find some inspiration also.

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Here's a vintage brass inkwell with a cute bird and little velvet 

cushioned chair that was made to hold a pocket watch

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In the center is Swarovski Electra crystal stone that is the first one I thought when thinking of Fall

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Cute brass bird on the inkwell, isn't it cute!

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Porcelain insert of inkwell is full of sparkly crystal rhinestones!

Igapäevaste toimetuste kõrval tuleb kinni haarata igast inspiratsioonipuhangust. Nii et, käes on sügis, üks värvilisemaid aastaaega, eriti kui päike paistab. Minu õnneks on mõned päiksepaistelised päevad/hetked ka siin Eestis. Kõik värvilised lehed, päike, mis veel jaksab soojendada ning krõbe ja karge õhk, mida kopsudesse hingata...

Ja äkki tundub see kõik nii suurejooneliselt inspireeriv! Kohe läksid mõtted mu sügisvärvides kristallklaasist ehtekividele. Tegemiste nimekiri on endiselt pikk ja võimalik, et ma nende kristallidega rohkem tööd teha ei saa, kuid nendega mängimine oli niivõrd inpsireeriv, et vahel pole rohkem vajagi. Tore on, kui need pildid seda inspiratsiooni edasi annavad neile, kellele seda vaja.